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Insects & Diseases

 

Pests to Our Landscape

 

 Japanese Beetles / Bagworms / Spider Mites / Phytophthora Root Rot

Brown Patch in Lawns / Powdery Mildew / Anthracnose on Dogwoods

Aphids on Birches and Plants / Azalea Lace Bug

Pest & Diseases On Roses / Scale Insects / Wooly Aphids

Two-Lined Spittlebug /

Click Here for Fertilome's "Bug" Insect Control Tips

Click Here to view a Home & Garden Pest Control Library

 

Japanese Beetles:

This pest causes 6-8 weeks of damage to the landscape by consuming foliage and flowers in many types of flowers, perennials, trees, and shrubs. Some favorites of this pest are roses, Altheas, Hibiscus, Birch, Cherry Trees, Zelcova, Japanese Maples, and more. During their rein in the garden, they consume large amounts of foliage leaving only the lacy shell of foliage as remains to eventually fall off the plant.

One of their favorite foods are flowers especially those of Roses and Hibiscus varieties causing damages to not only the open flowers, but also to the newly developed unopened flowers before you even get to enjoy their beauty.

One of the largest difficulties in managing Jap. Beetles is the large number of migratory populations that provide you a continual supply of pest to control. The ones you sprayed to kill one moment, aren't the same ones you'll see several hours or days later. Many insecticides applied to the foliage of plants do not provide strong residual control, so spraying once weekly will provide little results. Another great way to minimize the population of Japanese Beetles on your property is with the use of a soil insecticide. Evergreen of Johnson City offers Hi-Yield Kill-A-Grub, a granular insecticide that is applied to the lawn in May before beetles emerge from the lawn and has a residual affect remaining in the soil for 4 months also controlling the hatched eggs in July that hatch to remain in the soil until the next year. One application for two levels of control to this troublesome pest. One limitation is that managing those beetles emerging from your lawn doesn't mean that you won't still have problematic beetles coming from your neighbor's lawns.

With insecticide spraying and lawn insecticide applications being limited, many choose the Japanese Beetle Traps to attract and trap large numbers of beetles into a container to be discarded after the trap has been filled. This device works by utilizing a attracting scent bait that works like a charm. Placed a distance away from your favorite perennials, shrubs, or trees being infested to pull the beetles away from your desired beauties.

Evergreen sells both insecticides and Japanese beetle traps that will assist you with your battle with these menacing pests. Click below for other links to learn more details about Japanese Beetles, their life cycles, and control methods for this pest.

http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html

http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef409.htm

 

Bagworms:

Bagworms, Mature.jpg (15988 bytes)

Bagworms are a troublesome pest that focus their attack primarily to conifers such as Junipers, Arborvitae, Cypress, Hemlocks, Pine, Spruce, and other coniferous evergreens; however, bagworms are known to also infest a wide range of other landscapes shrubs and trees.

This pest hatches from eggs left in dormant sacks from the females from the previous year and hatch out in the spring to develop newly small caterpillar type pest that weave silken sacks as a housing structure and usually are surfaced from the needles from the shrub or tree host to assist in camouflaging from their predators. This technique make they hard to detect until they have not only gotten larger, but have already managed much damage to their host by eating large amount of foliage even to the point of stripping off large portions or entire amount of foliage on a tree or shrub.

The best form of control is early detection. I found my first infestation this year on one of my cypress shrubs at the very end of June. Walking by my shrub, I found large amount of small clustered sacks formed in a general area of my shrub. This picture will assist you in what I had seen during this early detection of small young develop bagworms. At this early stage, these small bagworms are only 1/2" to 3/4" long. Small quantities of bagworms can be manually pulled off and discarded.

Two other methods of control are utilizing insecticides, preferably systemic, especially where large numbers are existing, and by always making sure to pull off sacks by the end of the year since the females can lay 500 - 1,000 eggs in a single sack that will remain dormant on the shrub all winter and hatch out the next spring in May to early June.

For a safe organic method of control, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, in early spring. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets. There are also numerous chemical sprays available for the control of bagworms

Evergreen of Johnson will help you select the proper insecticide to assist you with the control of bagworms when spraying method is chosen. Come in and let us help you select the appropriate insecticide. These insecticides can be applied by either  hose or pump sprayers.

Below are some links to help you gain more info on bagworms, their life cycle, and control methods.

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef440.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_9370_control-bagworms.html

http://ipm.ncsu.edu/AG189/html/Bagworm.HTML

 

Spider Mites:

Adult twospotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae.

Unlike the two above mentioned pest problems, spider mites are very difficult or to detect byinjury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Actually seeing the insect itself. Detection of this pest is usually by knowledge of it's common host plant and by the symptoms that spider mite damage provides. Spider mites infest the foliage of it's host plant piercing the foliage to feed on it's inner membrane and fluids. This causes weakening of broadleaf evergreens, coniferous evergreens, and other forms of perennials and annual flowers. Left unmanaged, spider mites can easily kill out single or large groups of plants.

Detection is difficult, but in bad infestations, a clean white sheet of paper can be held under expected infested foliage to shake the foliage to drop spider mites onto the paper. These will appear as small reddish dots on the white paper.

Foliage damaged by spider mite infestations will include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. On broadleaf evergreens, a small dotted discoloration will occur causign the leaf to loose it's darkness and natural coloration.

Females overwinter in soil or on foliage of their host and become active around May in the spring. Females will lay over 100 eggs each which will evolve thru a stage of growth cycles eventually reaching adults stages. A single generation can evolve anywhere from 5 to 20 days, so infestations can be quick and serious.

A technique called syringing can be also utilized as short tern control. Since rainy weather seems to knock off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a hose (syringing) can perform the same task. A regular syringing can keep spider mites under control on most ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also helps conserve natural predators and increases the humidity, which in turn favors the needs of beneficial spider mite predators

This pest is not actually an insect, but is classified as an arachnids "spiders", therefore control by use of insecticide needs to be ones that are classified as miticides. Evergreen of Johnson City's trained professionals will help you to select the appropriate spray to ensure your successful control of spider mites in your garden. Below are some links to help you learn more about spider mites, their life cycle, and control options for your garden.

 

http://www.ipmofalaska.com/files/spidermites.html

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05507.html

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/mites.htm

 

Brown Patch Disease in Lawns

 

Brown Patch, Rhizoctonia solani, is a common lawn disease that is prevalent in lawn being managed to good standards. Unlike most lawn diseases, brown patch exists in conditions where high nitrogen levels are present, so lawns being fertilized regularly are prone to brown patch when other environmental conditions are also present.

Along with elevated nitrogen levels, high temperatures, high humidy, and high moisture levels are trigger points for brown patch infestations in fescue and blue grass lawns in our region. Though, fungicide treatments are available, the higher cost of these applications lead to preventative treatment as the first option when available. Below are typical treatments to include both preventative measures through proactive lawn management tactics as well as preventative and curative treatments utilizing liquid and granular fungicides.

  • Decrease nitrogen levels meaning to decrease fertilizer applications

  • Maintain sharp mower blades - diseases spread more rapidly on frayed grass blades

  • Decrease irrigation system intervals especially during rainy weather periods

  • Eliminate irrigating at late evening or nighttimes.

  • Pick up or prevent excessive clippings on lawn

  • Shorten mower heights to 2.5" - 3" to improve air flower and drying habits of blades.

  • Apply fungicides by utilizing either granular fungicides or liquid fungicides

Though fungicides are many times needed, utilize this as a last resort to treatment. When choosing to decrease fertilizer applications, consider apply Ironite to lawns as a method of greening without the use of nitrogen.

Click Here

to discover the many benefits of

Ironite soil supplement for all your gardening projects.

Evergreen of Johnson City also offers two forms of fungicides that can be used for direct preventative or curative control of brown patch and other lawn diseases. Hi-Yield Lawn Fungicide Granules including Bayleton fungicide is an easy effective granular that is simple to apply with a lawn spreader.

Also supplied by Evergreen of Johnson City is Fertilome Systemic Fungicide is a systemic action liquid fungicide that is wonderful for controlling a wide range of lawn diseases including brown patch.

 Below are website links that will allow you to review more information on Brown Patch, it's symptoms, favorable conditions, and control.

 

http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/ipm/disease/brwnpatc.htm

http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id112/id112.htm

http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_managing_brown_patch/

 

Phytophthora Root Rot

 

Phytophthora root rot, caused by Phytophthora cinnamomi, is a serious, widespread and difficult to control disease affecting a wide range of plants. Plants susceptible to the disease include acuba, azalea, rhododendron, dogwood, Camellia japonica, Pieris, Taxus (yew), deodar cedar, mountain laurel, heather, juniper, high-bush blueberries, Fraser fir, white pine, shortleaf pine, leucothoe, and others. Boxwood is attacked by P. parasitica, a similar fungus.

The most common symptom is a slow general decline of the plant. New growth may be wilted, light green and stunted. The plant foliage becomes sparse or thin and eventually dies. Some plants die one branch at a time until the entire plant dies. The centers of the roots change from white to a reddish-brown color, and the outer layer of the roots will separate easily from the core.

Phytophthora Root Rot, Phytophthora cinnamomi  (Peronosporales: Pythiaceae)Phytophthora root rot is favored by high soil moisture and warm soil temperatures. The disease does not occur as frequently and may not be as severe on well-drained sandy soils as on clay or poorly drained soils. The disease is common and severe in areas where run-off water, e.g., rainwater from roofs, collects around plant roots. Shallow soils with underlying rock or hard pans, setting woody plants deeper than the soil level in the nursery or container, over-watering plants, flooding, or long periods of heavy rain also favor disease development.

The best form of treatment is preventative and cultural practices. Below are some tips and control measures. You'll see cultural procedures listed first with the last being a fungicide treatment option for control of phytophthora root rot.

  • Plant susceptible plant varieties in very well drained soils only.

  • Never position root balls lower than their normal planting height

  • Never place soil on the surface of root balls when planting

  • Utilize raised plantings as often as possible

  • Amend soil with soil amendments that promote good drainage

  • Raise soil areas that are low and tend to hold water draining poorly

  • Avoid excessive watering, especially during hot and rainy periods.

  • Where attempted plantings have failed and phytophthora root rot has been experienced, replaced with alternate less susceptible shrub varieties.

  • A soil drench and foliage spray utilizing Monterey Agri-Fos Systemic Fungicide which can be used to treat problem situations where curative treatment is being attempted.

  • It's important to note that treatment for Phytopthora is difficult and best practices are to utilize cultural preventative measures to not make the conditions favorable for such diseases.

Here are some website links that will enable you to learn more about this this disease, it's symptoms, and control methods.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/od15.htm

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/odin13/od13.htm

http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-615/450-615.html

 

 

Anthracnose on Dogwoods

 

The lovely flowering dogwood, source of so much delight from its spring flowers to its autumn colors, has a lethal enemy - dogwood anthracnose. Caused by a fungus, Discula destructiva, dogwood anthracnose has devastated wild flowering dogwood populations in large areas of North America. The disease is relatively recent in origin, first noticed in 1978 with the fungus itself only identified in 1991. This and its subsequent rapid spread throughout much of the eastern half of the continent have led some scientists to suggest that it is not native to North America. Infected bracts.

Anthracnose on Dogwood varieties usually occur during late spring when higher temperatures are combined with frequent rainfall conditions. It's common for Anthracnose to be combined with Powdery Mildew which favors the same seasonal conditions. It's usually identified by light brown spots on leaves eventually growing into larger patches as the disease worsens. Anthracnose is a serious threat to the wild dogwood population since control measures are limited and uneconomical to manage. In home landscapes, fungicide sprays, such as Fertilome Systemic Fungicide containing Banner Max or Fertilome Lawn & Garden Fungicide containing Daconil. These fungicides can be mixed and applied to the foliage utilizing a hose end or pump sprayer. Control is difficult after serious infestation have occurred, so early detection and spraying is very critical to properly control this serious disease.

Below are a few links that will provide you more research on this troublesome Dogwood disease.

 

http://www.treehelp.com/trees/dogwood/dogwood-disease-dogwood-anthracnose.asp

http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/savedogwood.htm

 

Azalea Lace Bug

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pest & Diseases On Roses

 

 

 

Powdery Mildew

 

 

 

Scale Insects

 

 

 

Aphids on Birches and Plants

 

Birch Aphids

A frequent and common occurrence in the garden is aphid infestation on the tips and new growth of Birch varieties. Infestations usually occur in late April to mid May making the tip sections of new growth to gnarl and swivel up tightly due to the heavy infestation that occurs usually on the rear sides of the foliage. Close inspection will usually expose large quantities of greenish or brownish aphids like the ones on the picture to the left.

Short term infestation will not cause serious damage, but infestation left alone will cause severe stress, and nearly total leaf fall causing overall weakness to the trees especially to newly developing Birch trees.

Come in and let Evergreen's expert advisors select the appropriate insecticide to apply to the total Birch tree using a Fertilome Dial Nozzle Hose End Sprayer. Another great preventative early treatment that will assist and many times prevent serious aphid damage is apply DiSyston InsecticideGranules to the soil area below the Birch tree allowing the Birch tree to systemically take up the insecticide within it's fluids eventually killing out small infestation before they get too serious to treat in this manner.Bayer Advanced Garden:  Bayer Advanced™ Tree & Shrub Insect Control Concentrate

Also available is Bayer Tree & Shrub Insecticide which contains 'Merit'. Applied as a soil drench, this insecticide treatment provides appx. 1 year of insect Birch aphidcontrol covering aphids and other common insects. 

Below are a few related links to expose more informaton on Aphids, their life cycles, and control measures.

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/spf/fhp/leaflets/Biraph.htm

http://www.ipmofalaska.com/files/birchaphids.html

http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/fldcrops/ef103.htm

 

 

Woodly Aphids

Wooly Aphids - Eriosoma

Wooly aphids are a common insect attacking a wide range of trees and shrubs. ? - EriosomaWooly aphids

are sucking insects that live on plant fluids, and produces a filamentous waxy white covering which resembles cotton or wool. The adults are winged and move to new locations where they lay egg masses. The larvae often form large cottony masses on twigs, probably for protection from predators.

The wooly apple aphid is a pest for fruit growers. Many of the numerous species of wooly aphids have only one host plant species. Wooly aphids can produce lots of honeydew that coats the lower leaves and anything else beneath their hose plant. Wooly aphids look much like other aphids except they are white and fuzzy like mealybugs.  Hy-Yield Kill-A-Bug or Ortho Insect Control with Orthene can either be used to control wooly aphids.

Woolly aphids generally have two hosts: a primary host on which they overwinter, and a secondary host on which they spend much of the summer. Most woolly aphids share a similar life cycle, although some details of the life cycle may vary among species. They usually overwinter as eggs laid in bark of their primary host. In spring, the eggs hatch into females which give birth without mating. Each female can produce hundreds of offspring, so populations can grow rapidly.

Wooly aphid on new growth blackberry, red objects unknown, possibly parasitic mitesAfter one or two generations on the primary host, winged females are produced, and they fly to secondary hosts. They remain on secondary hosts for the remainder of the summer, producing several generations of young aphids. In late summer or early fall, a different group of winged females flies back to a primary host where they give birth to tiny male and female aphids that mate. Gravid females deposit a single large egg (or eggs) into protected locations in the bark and then die. While woolly aphids generally have two hosts, many species can sustain themselves on their secondary host alone (see below).

Woolly aphids feed by inserting needle-like mouthparts into plant tissue and withdrawing sap. They feed on leaves, buds, twigs, and bark, but can also feed on the roots. Symptoms of feeding include twisted and curled leaves, yellowed foliage, poor plant growth, low plant vigor, and branch dieback. Physical injury may result when large numbers of woolly aphids attack young trees or unhealthy, stressed trees. Fortunately, severe woolly aphid infestations only occur periodically and are generally kept in check by natural enemies. In addition to the physical damage to the plant, accumulations of wax and shed skins are sometimes very conspicuous signs on the leaves, twigs, and bark.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/e453woollyaphid.html

 

 

Two-Lined Spittlebug

The spittlebug derives its name from the white, frothy" spittle" the nymphs produce. Adults are large, blackTwo-lined Spittlebug - Prosapia bicincta Prosapia bicinctaleafhoppers about 1/3-inch long with two red stripes that go crosswise across the back. The eyes and abdomen are bright red. Though the nymphs resemble the adults, they are smaller and wingless. Color varies from yellow to white to orange but the eyes are always red.

Spittlebug nymphs suck plant juices like aphids, but they remove so much water and carbohydrates that excess fluid is produced. They cover themselves with this fluid and then produce the spittle by bubbling air from the tip of the abdomen into the liquid. The spittle mass helps protect the nymphs from drying and predators.

Spittlebugs normally do not achieve high enough populations to cause damage. If they do, forcefully hosing the plants several times may achieve the level of control needed. If not, a variety of common ornamental insecticides can be used such as Ortho Systemic Insecticide, Hi-Yield Kill-A-Bug, or Fertilome Carbaryl.

Below are a few links that you can use to understand more about the two lined Spittlebug.

 

 

http://insects.tamu.edu/fieldguide/aimg86.html

http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/problems/SpittleBug.htm

http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/forage/ce159.htm