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Insects & Diseases
Pests to Our Landscape
Japanese Beetles /
Bagworms / Spider Mites /
Phytophthora Root Rot
Brown Patch in Lawns /
Powdery
Mildew / Anthracnose on Dogwoods
Aphids on Birches and Plants /
Azalea Lace Bug
Pest & Diseases On Roses /
Scale Insects / Wooly
Aphids
Two-Lined Spittlebug /
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View Current Seasonal Pest Alerts Page

Japanese Beetles:
This
pest causes 6-8 weeks of damage to the landscape by
consuming foliage and flowers in many types of flowers,
perennials, trees, and shrubs. Some favorites of this
pest are roses, Altheas, Hibiscus, Birch, Cherry Trees,
Zelcova, Japanese Maples, and more. During their rein in
the garden, they consume large amounts of foliage
leaving only the lacy shell of foliage as remains to
eventually fall off the plant.
One of their favorite foods are flowers especially those
of Roses and Hibiscus varieties causing damages to not
only the open flowers, but also to the newly developed
unopened flowers before you even get to enjoy their
beauty.

One of the largest difficulties in managing Jap. Beetles
is the large number of migratory populations that
provide you a continual supply of pest to control. The
ones you sprayed to kill one moment, aren't the same
ones you'll see several hours or days later. Many
insecticides applied to the foliage of plants do not
provide strong residual control, so spraying once weekly
will provide little results. Another great way to
minimize the population of Japanese Beetles on your
property is with the use of a soil insecticide.
Evergreen of Johnson City offers
Hi-Yield Kill-A-Grub, a
granular insecticide that is applied to the lawn in May
before beetles emerge from the lawn and has a residual
affect remaining in the soil for 4 months also
controlling the hatched eggs in July that hatch to
remain in the soil until the next year. One application
for two levels of control to this troublesome pest. One
limitation is that managing those beetles emerging from
your lawn doesn't mean that you won't still have
problematic beetles coming from your neighbor's lawns.
With insecticide spraying and lawn insecticide
applications being limited, many choose the
Japanese
Beetle Traps to attract and trap large numbers of
beetles into a container to be discarded after the trap
has been filled. This device works by utilizing a
attracting scent bait that works like a charm. Placed a
distance away from your favorite perennials, shrubs, or
trees being infested to pull the beetles away from your
desired beauties.
Evergreen sells both insecticides and Japanese beetle
traps that will assist you with your battle with these
menacing pests. Click below for other links to learn
more details about Japanese Beetles, their life cycles,
and control methods for this pest.
http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/cic_text/housing/japanese-beetle/jbeetle.html
http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef409.htm
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2001.html
http://www.ivyhall.district96.k12.il.us/4th/kkhp/1insects/japbeetle.html
Bagworms:

Bagworms are a troublesome pest that focus their attack
primarily to conifers such as Junipers, Arborvitae,
Cypress, Hemlocks, Pine, Spruce, and other coniferous
evergreens; however, bagworms are known to also infest a
wide range of other landscapes shrubs and trees.
This pest hatches from eggs left in dormant sacks from
the females from the previous year and hatch out in the
spring to develop newly small caterpillar type pest that
weave silken sacks as a housing structure and usually
are surfaced from the needles from the shrub or tree
host to assist in camouflaging from their predators.
This technique make they hard to detect until they have
not only gotten larger, but have already managed much
damage to their host by eating large amount of foliage
even to the point of stripping off large portions or
entire amount of foliage on a tree or shrub.

The best form of control is early detection. I found my
first infestation this year on one of my cypress shrubs
at the very end of June. Walking by my shrub, I found
large amount of small clustered sacks formed in a
general area of my shrub. This picture will assist you
in what I had seen during this early detection of small
young develop bagworms. At this early stage, these small
bagworms are only 1/2" to 3/4" long. Small quantities of
bagworms can be manually pulled off and discarded.
Two other methods of control are utilizing insecticides,
preferably systemic, especially where large numbers are
existing, and by always making sure to pull off sacks by
the end of the year since the females can lay 500 -
1,000 eggs in a single sack that will remain dormant on
the shrub all winter and hatch out the next spring in
May to early June.
For a safe organic method of control,
spray with Bacillus
thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, in
early spring. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a
bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets.
There are also numerous chemical sprays available for
the control of bagworms
Evergreen of Johnson will help you select the proper
insecticide to assist you with the control of bagworms
when spraying method is chosen. Come in and let us help
you select the appropriate insecticide. These
insecticides can be applied by either hose or pump
sprayers.
Below are some links to help you gain more info on
bagworms, their life cycle, and control methods.
http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/insects/g4.htm
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef440.htm
http://www.ehow.com/how_9370_control-bagworms.html
http://ipm.ncsu.edu/AG189/html/Bagworm.HTML
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2149.html
http://ag.udel.edu/extension/information/hyg/hyg-04.htm
Spider Mites:

Unlike the two above mentioned pest problems, spider
mites are very difficult or to detect byinjury include
flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of
leaves. Actually seeing the insect itself. Detection of
this pest is usually by knowledge of it's common host
plant and by the symptoms that spider mite damage
provides. Spider mites infest the foliage of it's host
plant piercing the foliage to feed on it's inner
membrane and fluids. This causes weakening of broadleaf
evergreens, coniferous evergreens, and other forms of
perennials and annual flowers. Left unmanaged, spider
mites can easily kill out single or large groups of
plants.
Detection is difficult, but in bad infestations, a clean
white sheet of paper can be held under expected infested
foliage to shake the foliage to drop spider mites onto
the paper. These will appear as small reddish dots on
the white paper.

Foliage damaged by spider mite infestations will include
flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of
leaves. On broadleaf evergreens, a small dotted
discoloration will occur causign the leaf to loose it's
darkness and natural coloration.
Females overwinter in soil or on foliage of their host
and become active around May in the spring. Females will
lay over 100 eggs each which will evolve thru a stage of
growth cycles eventually reaching adults stages. A
single generation can evolve anywhere from 5 to 20 days,
so infestations can be quick and serious.
A technique called syringing can be also utilized as
short tern control. Since rainy weather seems to knock
off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a
hose (syringing) can perform the same task. A regular
syringing can keep spider mites under control on most
ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also
helps conserve natural predators and increases the
humidity, which in turn favors the needs of beneficial
spider mite predators
This pest is not actually an insect, but is classified
as an arachnids "spiders", therefore control by use of
insecticide needs to be ones that are classified as
miticides. Evergreen of Johnson City's trained
professionals will help you to select the appropriate
spray to ensure your successful control of spider mites
in your garden. Below are some links to help you learn
more about spider mites, their life cycle, and control
options for your garden.
http://www.ipmofalaska.com/files/spidermites.html
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05507.html
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2012.html
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/mites.htm

Brown Patch
Disease in Lawns
Brown Patch, Rhizoctonia solani,
is a common lawn disease that is prevalent in
lawn being managed to good standards. Unlike most lawn
diseases, brown patch exists in conditions where high
nitrogen levels are present, so lawns being fertilized
regularly are prone to brown patch when other
environmental conditions are also present.
Along with elevated nitrogen levels, high temperatures,
high humidy, and high moisture levels are trigger points
for brown patch infestations in fescue and blue grass
lawns in our region. Though, fungicide treatments are
available, the higher cost of these applications lead to
preventative treatment as the first option when
available. Below are typical treatments to include both
preventative measures through proactive lawn management
tactics as well as preventative and curative treatments
utilizing liquid and granular fungicides.
-
Decrease nitrogen levels meaning to decrease
fertilizer applications
-
Maintain sharp mower blades - diseases spread more
rapidly on frayed grass blades
-
Decrease irrigation system intervals especially
during rainy weather periods
-
Eliminate irrigating at late evening or nighttimes.
-
Pick up or prevent excessive clippings on lawn
-
Shorten mower heights to 2.5" - 3" to improve air
flower and drying habits of blades.
-
Apply fungicides by utilizing either granular
fungicides or liquid fungicides
Though fungicides are many times needed, utilize this as
a last resort to treatment. When choosing to decrease
fertilizer applications, consider apply
Ironite to lawns as a method
of greening without the use of nitrogen.
Click Here
to discover the many benefits of
Ironite soil supplement for all your gardening projects.
 
Evergreen of Johnson City also offers two forms of
fungicides that can be used for direct preventative or
curative control of brown patch and other lawn diseases.
Hi-Yield Lawn
Fungicide Granules including Bayleton fungicide is an
easy effective granular that is simple to apply with a
lawn spreader.
Also supplied by Evergreen of Johnson City is
Fertilome
Systemic Fungicide is a systemic action liquid fungicide
that is wonderful for controlling a wide range of lawn
diseases including brown patch.
Below
are website links that will allow you to review more
information on Brown Patch, it's symptoms, favorable
conditions, and control.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/ipm/disease/brwnpatc.htm
http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/plantdisease/g688.htm
http://leon.ifas.ufl.edu/brown_patch_disease.htm
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id112/id112.htm
http://agebb.missouri.edu/hort/meg/archives/v6n9/meg2.htm
http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_managing_brown_patch/
Phytophthora
Root Rot
Phytophthora root rot,
caused by Phytophthora cinnamomi, is a serious,
widespread and difficult to
control disease affecting a wide range of plants. Plants
susceptible to the disease include acuba, azalea,
rhododendron, dogwood, Camellia japonica,
Pieris, Taxus (yew), deodar cedar, mountain
laurel, heather, juniper, high-bush blueberries, Fraser
fir, white pine, shortleaf pine, leucothoe, and others.
Boxwood is attacked by P. parasitica, a similar
fungus.
The most common symptom is a slow general decline of the
plant. New growth may be wilted, light green and
stunted. The plant foliage becomes sparse or thin and
eventually dies. Some plants die one branch at a time
until the entire plant dies. The centers of the roots
change from white to a reddish-brown color, and the
outer layer of the roots will separate easily from the
core.
Phytophthora
root rot is favored by high soil moisture and warm soil
temperatures. The disease does not occur as frequently
and may not be as severe on well-drained sandy soils as
on clay or poorly drained soils. The disease is common
and severe in areas where run-off water, e.g., rainwater
from roofs, collects around plant roots. Shallow soils
with underlying rock or hard pans, setting woody plants
deeper than the soil level in the nursery or container,
over-watering plants, flooding, or long periods of heavy
rain also favor disease development.
The best form of treatment is preventative and cultural
practices.
Below are some tips and control measures. You'll see
cultural procedures listed first with the last being a
fungicide treatment option for control of phytophthora
root rot.
-
Plant susceptible plant varieties in very well
drained soils only.
-
Never position root balls lower than their normal
planting height
-
Never place soil on the surface of root balls when
planting
-
Utilize raised plantings as often as possible
-
Amend soil with soil amendments that promote good
drainage
-
Raise soil areas that are low and tend to hold water
draining poorly
-
Avoid excessive watering, especially during hot and
rainy periods.
-
Where attempted plantings have failed and
phytophthora root rot has been experienced, replaced
with alternate less susceptible shrub varieties.
-
A soil drench and foliage spray utilizing
Monterey Aliette
can be used to treat problem situations where
curative treatment is being attempted.
Here are some website links that will enable you to
learn more about this this disease, it's symptoms, and
control methods.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/od15.htm
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/information_about_plants/pests_diseases/fact_sheets/phytophthora_root_rot
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/odin13/od13.htm
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-615/450-615.html
http://students.washington.edu/melliott/arbutus/phyto.html
Anthracnose on
Dogwoods

The lovely flowering
dogwood, source of so much delight from its spring
flowers to its autumn colors, has a lethal enemy -
dogwood anthracnose. Caused by a fungus, Discula
destructiva, dogwood anthracnose has devastated wild
flowering dogwood populations in large areas of North
America. The disease is relatively recent in origin,
first noticed in 1978 with the fungus itself only
identified in 1991. This and its subsequent rapid spread
throughout much of the eastern half of the continent
have led some scientists to suggest that it is not
native to North America.

Anthracnose on Dogwood varieties
usually occur during late spring when
higher temperatures are combined with frequent rainfall
conditions. It's common for Anthracnose to be combined
with Powdery Mildew which favors the same seasonal
conditions. It's usually identified by light brown spots
on leaves
eventually growing into larger patches as the disease
worsens. Anthracnose is a serious threat to the wild
dogwood population
since control
measures are limited and uneconomical to
manage.
In home
landscapes, fungicide sprays,
such as Fertilome Systemic
Fungicide containing Banner Max or
Fertilome
Lawn & Garden
Fungicide
containing Daconil. These fungicides can be mixed and
applied to the foliage utilizing a hose end or
pump sprayer. Control is difficult after serious
infestation have occurred, so early detection and
spraying is very critical to properly control this
serious disease.
Below are a few links that will provide you more
research on this troublesome Dogwood disease.
http://www.treehelp.com/trees/dogwood/dogwood-disease-dogwood-anthracnose.asp
http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/savedogwood.htm
http://www.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/tree-disease/anthdgwd.html
Azalea Lace Bug

http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/information_about_plants/pests_diseases/fact_sheets/azelae_lace_bugs
Pest & Diseases
On Roses
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/information_about_plants/pests_diseases/fact_sheets/pests_and_disease_of_roses
Powdery Mildew
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/information_about_plants/pests_diseases/fact_sheets/powdery_mildew
Scale Insects
http://www.rbgsyd.gov.au/information_about_plants/pests_diseases/fact_sheets/scale_insects
Aphids on Birches
and Plants

A frequent and common occurrence in the garden is aphid
infestation on the tips and new growth of Birch
varieties. Infestations usually occur in late April to
mid May making the tip sections of new growth to gnarl
and swivel up tightly due to the heavy infestation that
occurs usually on the rear sides of the foliage. Close
inspection will usually expose large quantities of
greenish or brownish aphids like the ones on the picture
to the left.

Short term infestation will not cause serious damage,
but infestation left alone will cause severe stress, and
nearly total leaf fall causing overall weakness to the
trees especially to newly developing Birch trees.
Come in and let Evergreen's expert advisors select the
appropriate insecticide to apply to the total Birch tree
using a Fertilome Dial Nozzle
Hose End Sprayer. Another great preventative
early treatment that will assist and
many times prevent serious aphid damage is apply
DiSyston
InsecticideGranules
to the soil area below the Birch tree allowing
the Birch tree to systemically take up the insecticide
within it's fluids eventually killing out small
infestation before they get too serious to treat in this
manner.
Also available is Bayer Tree &
Shrub Insecticide which contains 'Merit'.
Applied as a soil drench, this insecticide treatment
provides appx. 1 year of insect
control
covering aphids and other common insects.
Below are a few related links to expose more informaton
on Aphids, their life cycles, and control measures.
http://www.fs.fed.us/r10/spf/fhp/leaflets/Biraph.htm
http://www.ipmofalaska.com/files/birchaphids.html
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2031.html
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/fldcrops/ef103.htm
Woodly Aphids

Wooly aphids are a common insect attacking a wide range
of trees and shrubs.
Wooly
aphids
are sucking insects that live on plant
fluids, and produces a filamentous waxy
white covering which resembles cotton or
wool. The adults are winged and move to
new locations where they lay egg masses.
The larvae often form large cottony
masses on twigs, probably for protection
from predators.
The wooly apple aphid is a pest for
fruit growers. Many of the numerous
species of wooly aphids have only one
host plant species. Wooly aphids can
produce lots of honeydew that coats the
lower leaves and anything else beneath
their hose plant. Wooly aphids look much
like other aphids except they are white
and fuzzy like mealybugs.
Hy-Yield
Kill-A-Bug or
Ortho Insect Control
with
Orthene can either be used to control
wooly aphids.

Woolly aphids generally have two hosts:
a primary host on which they overwinter,
and a secondary host on which they spend
much of the summer. Most woolly aphids
share a similar life cycle, although
some details of the life cycle may vary
among species. They usually overwinter
as eggs laid in bark of their primary
host. In spring, the eggs hatch into
females which give birth without mating.
Each female can produce hundreds of
offspring, so populations can grow
rapidly.
After
one or two generations on the primary
host, winged females are produced, and
they fly to secondary hosts. They remain
on secondary hosts for the remainder of
the summer, producing several
generations of young aphids. In late
summer or early fall, a different group
of winged females flies
back to a primary host where they give
birth to tiny male and female aphids
that mate. Gravid females deposit a
single large egg (or eggs) into
protected locations in the bark and then
die. While woolly aphids generally have
two hosts, many species can sustain
themselves on their secondary host alone
(see below).
Woolly aphids feed by inserting
needle-like mouthparts into plant tissue
and withdrawing sap. They feed on
leaves, buds, twigs, and bark, but can
also feed on the roots. Symptoms of
feeding include twisted and curled
leaves, yellowed foliage, poor plant
growth, low plant vigor, and branch
dieback. Physical injury may result when
large numbers of woolly aphids attack
young trees or unhealthy, stressed
trees. Fortunately, severe woolly aphid
infestations only occur periodically and
are generally kept in check by natural
enemies. In addition to the physical
damage to the plant, accumulations of
wax and shed skins are sometimes very
conspicuous signs on the leaves, twigs,
and bark.
http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/part2/part22bbq.htm
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/e453woollyaphid.html
Two-Lined Spittlebug
The spittlebug derives its name from the white, frothy"
spittle" the nymphs produce. Adults are large, black
leafhoppers
about 1/3-inch long with two red stripes that go
crosswise across the back. The eyes and abdomen are
bright red. Though the nymphs resemble the adults, they
are smaller and wingless. Color varies from yellow to
white to orange but the eyes are always red.
Spittlebug nymphs suck plant juices like aphids, but
they remove so much water and carbohydrates that excess
fluid is produced. They cover themselves with this fluid
and then produce the spittle by bubbling air from the
tip of the abdomen into the liquid. The spittle mass
helps protect the nymphs from drying and predators.
Spittlebugs
normally do not achieve high enough populations to cause
damage. If they do, forcefully hosing the plants several
times may achieve the level of control needed. If not, a
variety of common ornamental insecticides can be used
such as Ortho Systemic Insecticide,
Hi-Yield Kill-A-Bug, or
Fertilome Carbaryl.
Below are a few links that you can use to understand
more about the two lined Spittlebug.
http://insects.tamu.edu/fieldguide/aimg86.html
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/problems/SpittleBug.htm
http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/forage/ce159.htm |