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Seasonal Pest Alerts
Wooly Aphids /
Bagworms / Spider Mites /
Scale
Brown Patch in Lawns /
Anthracnose on Dogwoods
Azalea Lace Bug /
Phytophthora Root Rot /
Two-Lined Spittlebug
Hemlock Wooly Adelgids
Woodly Aphids

Wooly aphids are a common insect attacking a wide range
of trees and shrubs.
Wooly
aphids
are sucking insects that live on plant
fluids, and produces a filamentous waxy
white covering which resembles cotton or
wool. The adults are winged and move to
new locations where they lay egg masses.
The larvae often form large cottony
masses on twigs, probably for protection
from predators.
The wooly apple aphid is a pest for
fruit growers. Many of the numerous
species of wooly aphids have only one
host plant species. Wooly aphids can
produce lots of honeydew that coats the
lower leaves and anything else beneath
their hose plant. Wooly aphids look much
like other aphids except they are white
and fuzzy like mealybugs.
Hy-Yield
Kill-A-Bug or
Fertilome Tree
& Shrub Insect Drench which can either be used to control
wooly aphids.
Woolly aphids generally have two hosts:
a primary host on which they overwinter,
and a secondary host on which they spend
much of the summer. Most woolly aphids
share a similar life cycle, although
some details of the life cycle may vary
among species. They usually overwinter
as eggs laid in bark of their primary
host. In spring, the eggs hatch into
females which give birth without mating.
Each female can produce hundreds of
offspring, so populations can grow
rapidly.
After
one or two generations on the primary
host, winged females are produced, and
they fly to secondary hosts. They remain
on secondary hosts for the remainder of
the summer, producing several
generations of young aphids. In late
summer or early fall, a different group
of winged females flies
back to a primary host where they give
birth to tiny male and female aphids
that mate. Gravid females deposit a
single large egg (or eggs) into
protected locations in the bark and then
die. While woolly aphids generally have
two hosts, many species can sustain
themselves on their secondary host alone
(see below).
Woolly aphids feed by inserting
needle-like mouthparts into plant tissue
and withdrawing sap. They feed on
leaves, buds, twigs, and bark, but can
also feed on the roots. Symptoms of
feeding include twisted and curled
leaves, yellowed foliage, poor plant
growth, low plant vigor, and branch
dieback. Physical injury may result when
large numbers of woolly aphids attack
young trees or unhealthy, stressed
trees. Fortunately, severe woolly aphid
infestations only occur periodically and
are generally kept in check by natural
enemies. In addition to the physical
damage to the plant, accumulations of
wax and shed skins are sometimes very
conspicuous signs on the leaves, twigs,
and bark.
http://www.extension.umn.edu/projects/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/e453woollyaphid.html
Bagworms:

Bagworms are a troublesome pest that focus their attack
primarily to conifers such as Junipers, Arborvitae,
Cypress, Hemlocks, Pine, Spruce, and other coniferous
evergreens; however, bagworms are known to also infest a
wide range of other landscapes shrubs and trees.
This pest hatches from eggs left in dormant sacks from
the females from the previous year and hatch out in the
spring to develop newly small caterpillar type pest that
weave silken sacks as a housing structure and usually
are surfaced from the needles from the shrub or tree
host to assist in camouflaging from their predators.
This technique make they hard to detect until they have
not only gotten larger, but have already managed much
damage to their host by eating large amount of foliage
even to the point of stripping off large portions or
entire amount of foliage on a tree or shrub.

The best form of control is early detection. I found my
first infestation this year on one of my cypress shrubs
at the very end of June. Walking by my shrub, I found
large amount of small clustered sacks formed in a
general area of my shrub. This picture will assist you
in what I had seen during this early detection of small
young develop bagworms. At this early stage, these small
bagworms are only 1/2" to 3/4" long. Small quantities of
bagworms can be manually pulled off and discarded.
Two other methods of control are utilizing insecticides,
preferably systemic, especially where large numbers are
existing, and by always making sure to pull off sacks by
the end of the year since the females can lay 500 -
1,000 eggs in a single sack that will remain dormant on
the shrub all winter and hatch out the next spring in
May to early June.

For a safe organic method of control,
spray with Bacillus
thuringiensis, an organic control for caterpillars, in
early spring. Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a
bacteria and is safe to use around children and pets.
Fertilome Bagworm Tent Catepillar Spray is one that we
regularly advise and is also safe to the environment. There are also numerous chemical sprays available for
the control of bagworms .
Evergreen of Johnson will help you select the proper
insecticide to assist you with the control of bagworms
when spraying method is chosen. Come in and let us help
you select the appropriate insecticide. These
insecticides can be applied by either hose or pump
sprayers.
Below are some links to help you gain more info on
bagworms, their life cycle, and control methods.
http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/trees/ef440.htm
http://www.ehow.com/how_9370_control-bagworms.html
http://ipm.ncsu.edu/AG189/html/Bagworm.HTML
Spider Mites:

Unlike the two above mentioned pest problems, spider
mites are very difficult or to detect byinjury include
flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of
leaves. Actually seeing the insect itself. Detection of
this pest is usually by knowledge of it's common host
plant and by the symptoms that spider mite damage
provides. Spider mites infest the foliage of it's host
plant piercing the foliage to feed on it's inner
membrane and fluids. This causes weakening of broadleaf
evergreens, coniferous evergreens, and other forms of
perennials and annual flowers. Left unmanaged, spider
mites can easily kill out single or large groups of
plants.
Detection is difficult, but in bad infestations, a clean
white sheet of paper can be held under expected infested
foliage to shake the foliage to drop spider mites onto
the paper. These will appear as small reddish dots on
the white paper.

Foliage damaged by spider mite infestations will include
flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of
leaves. On broadleaf evergreens, a small dotted
discoloration will occur causign the leaf to loose it's
darkness and natural coloration.
Females overwinter in soil or on foliage of their host
and become active around May in the spring. Females will
lay over 100 eggs each which will evolve thru a stage of
growth cycles eventually reaching adults stages. A
single generation can evolve anywhere from 5 to 20 days,
so infestations can be quick and serious.
A technique called syringing can be also utilized as
short tern control. Since rainy weather seems to knock
off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a
hose (syringing) can perform the same task. A regular
syringing can keep spider mites under control on most
ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also
helps conserve natural predators and increases the
humidity, which in turn favors the needs of beneficial
spider mite predators
This pest is not actually an insect, but is classified
as an arachnids "spiders", therefore control by use of
insecticide needs to be ones that are classified as
miticides. Evergreen of Johnson City's trained
professionals will help you to select the appropriate
spray to ensure your successful control of spider mites
in your garden. Below are some links to help you learn
more about spider mites, their life cycle, and control
options for your garden.
http://www.ipmofalaska.com/files/spidermites.html
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05507.html
http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/mites.htm
Scale
Scale insects include a wide variety of types that can
afflict many forms of plants both indoors and within our
outdoor landscapes. Though scale is a problem on indoor
plants as well, we'll focus more on the concerns of
scale within our outdoor landscapes. Scale can be a
serious pest causing serious damage to various trees,
shrubs, and perennials and certainly be fatal if not
treated or detected in time.
There are three categories of scale which are similar on
their affect on plants, but also somewhat different in
their control. These types of scale are soft scale,
armored scale, and mealybugs. Of these three categories,
Armored Scale and Soft Scale are by far the most serious
on outdoor landscapes. Mealybugs are more common on
indoor tropical houseplants. Different species of scale
insects attach various kinds of fruits and ornamental
plants of the country. They attach to branches, twigs,
and the undersides of leaves, appearing as small bumps.
Some are flattened and brown, while cottony cushion
scale is thick, white, and covered with a waxy or woolly
substance.
Leaves
on infested plants turn yellow and the overall vigor of
the plant declines. Severely infested plants may die
within several seasons. Mature females feed, lay eggs,
and raise families under their protective shells. Eggs
hatch into crawlers that feed by sucking plant juices.
This crawler stage is the most migratory stage of scale
and is also the most venerable time for effective
control. As they mature, crawlers produce a shell-like
covering and loose their legs. There may be several
generations per year.
The armored scales secrete a waxy covering over their
bodies. This covering is not an integral part of the
insect's body. Armored scale lives and feeds under this
covering which resembles a plate of armor, hence the
name. They vary in size from 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch in
diameter and can be almost any color, depending on the
species. Amored scales may be circular, oval, oblong,
thread-like, or even pear-shaped. The female's armor is
larger than that of the male, while the shape and color
may be similar or distinctly different, depending up the
particular species.
Soft scales also secrete a waxy covering, but it is an
integral part of their body. Soft scales vary widely in
color, size, and shape. They range from 1/8 inch to 1/2
inch in diameter and may be nearly flat to almost
spherical in shape.
Scales are present year round. Scale species may
overwinter in any life stage, but most overwinter as
eggs or mated famales which are the stages that best
survive low winter temperatures. The egg stage and hatch
of the crawlers are often correlated with the flush of
new growth in the spring. However, each scale species
has its own innate phenology that varies with
temperature and also may be affected by the plant host
species. Populations build up throughout the spring and
summer months until by the end of the season all the
life stages are present together.
Due
to the nature of scale's protective covering, control of
scale is most effective during the crawler stage when
the crawlers hatch from eggs and emerge from beneath the
scale's waxy protective covering. These crawlers are
migrating to locate soft tender stems and veins of
plants as well as trunks varying on scale species. Often
these are located on the undersides of leaves.
Horticultural oil sprays, such as
Fertilome ScaleCide, are very effective
for the control of soft
scale and on crawlers during the crawler stage. This oil
spray can be used during both the dormant cool season as
well as early spring when temperatures are below 75
degrees. Other forms of oil sprays, such a
Fertilome's Triple Action
containing Neem Oil, can be used also used during
the warmer periods of the year which have lesser
temperature restrictions.
Two other forms of effective controls are
Fertilome Tree & Shrub Insect
Drench or Bonide's
Systemic Insect Spray containing the active
ingredient acephate. The now popular soil drench
insecticides providing year long control are effective
on soft scale, but do not provide effective control on
armored scale. Armored scale are most effectively
control by oil sprays or other insecticides during the
crawler stage.
One easy method of identification is that Soft Scales -
secrete a waxy film (up to 1/2 inch long) that is part
of the body. In most cases, they are able to move short
distances (but rarely do) and produce copious amounts
of honeydew. Honeydew is a sticky, clear shiny
substance on the leaf's surface and often is associated
with a blackish appearance known as sooty mold. This is
a secondary mold that grows on the sugary substance of
the honeydew. Soft scale vary in shape from flat to
almost spherical.
Armored (Hard) Scales - secrete a hard protective
covering (1/8 inch long) over themselves, which is not
attached to the body. The hard scale lives and feeds
under this spherical armor and does not move about the
plant. They do not secrete honeydew.
While soft scale are controlled by both oil sprays
during both the dormant and active stages, armored
"hard" scale are best controlled during their crawler
stage or with a systemic insecticide drench or foliar
insecticide spray.
Brown Patch
Disease in Lawns
Brown Patch, Rhizoctonia solani,
is a common lawn disease that is prevalent in
lawn being managed to good standards. Unlike most lawn
diseases, brown patch exists in conditions where high
nitrogen levels are present, so lawns being fertilized
regularly are prone to brown patch when other
environmental conditions are also present.
Along with elevated nitrogen levels, high temperatures,
high humidity, and high moisture levels are trigger points
for brown patch infestations in fescue and blue grass
lawns in our region. Though, fungicide treatments are
available, the higher cost of these applications lead to
preventative treatment as the first option when
available. Below are typical treatments to include both
preventative measures through proactive lawn management
tactics as well as preventative and curative treatments
utilizing liquid and granular fungicides.
-
Decrease nitrogen levels meaning to decrease
fertilizer applications
-
Maintain sharp mower blades - diseases spread more
rapidly on frayed grass blades
-
Decrease irrigation system intervals especially
during rainy weather periods
-
Eliminate irrigating at late evening or nighttimes.
-
Pick up or prevent excessive clippings on lawn
-
Shorten mower heights to 2.5" - 3" to improve air
flower and drying habits of blades.
-
Apply fungicides by utilizing either granular
fungicides or liquid fungicides
Click Here for
a link to an additional article recently published
summer of 2007 issue of
Total Landscape
Care.
Though fungicides are many times needed, utilize this as
a last resort to treatment. When choosing to decrease
fertilizer applications, consider apply
Ironite to lawns as a method
of greening without the use of nitrogen.
Click Here
to discover the many benefits of
Ironite soil supplement for all your gardening projects.

Evergreen of Johnson City also offers two forms of
fungicides that can be used for direct preventative or
curative control of brown patch and other lawn diseases.
Fertilome F-Stop granular
fungicide is an
easy effective granular
fungicide that is simple to apply with a
lawn spreader.
Also supplied by Evergreen of Johnson City is
Fertilome Systemic Fungicide
which is a systemic action liquid fungicide
that is wonderful for controlling a wide range of lawn
diseases including brown patch.
Below
are website links that will allow you to review more
information on Brown Patch, it's symptoms, favorable
conditions, and control.
http://www.wvu.edu/~agexten/ipm/disease/brwnpatc.htm
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id112/id112.htm
http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_managing_brown_patch/
Anthracnose on
Dogwoods

The lovely flowering
dogwood, source of so much delight from its spring
flowers to its autumn colors, has a lethal enemy -
dogwood anthracnose. Caused by a fungus, Discula
destructiva, dogwood anthracnose has devastated wild
flowering dogwood populations in large areas of North
America. The disease is relatively recent in origin,
first noticed in 1978 with the fungus itself only
identified in 1991. This and its subsequent rapid spread
throughout much of the eastern half of the continent
have led some scientists to suggest that it is not
native to North America.
Anthracnose on Dogwood varieties usually occur during
late spring when
higher
temperatures are combined with frequent rainfall
conditions. It's common for Anthracnose to be combined
with Powdery Mildew which favors the same seasonal
conditions. It's usually identified by light brown spots
on leaves eventually growing into larger patches
as
the disease worsens. Anthracnose is a serious threat to
the wild dogwood population since control measures are
limited and uneconomical to manage. In home landscapes,
fungicide sprays, such as
Fertilome Systemic Fungicide containing
Banner Max or Fertilome Lawn &
Garden Fungicide containing
Daconil. These fungicides can be
mixed and applied to the foliage utilizing a hose end or
pump sprayer. Control is difficult after serious
infestation have occurred, so early detection and
spraying is very critical to properly control this
serious disease.
Below are a few links that will provide you more
research on this troublesome Dogwood disease.
http://www.treehelp.com/trees/dogwood/dogwood-disease-dogwood-anthracnose.asp
http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/savedogwood.htm
Phytophthora
Root Rot
Phytophthora root rot,
caused by Phytophthora cinnamomi, is a serious,
widespread and difficult to
control disease affecting a wide range of plants. Plants
susceptible to the disease include acuba, azalea,
rhododendron, dogwood, Camellia japonica,
Pieris, Taxus (yew), deodar cedar, mountain
laurel, heather, juniper, high-bush blueberries, Fraser
fir, white pine, shortleaf pine, leucothoe, and others.
Boxwood is attacked by P. parasitica, a similar
fungus.
The most common symptom is a slow general decline of the
plant. New growth may be wilted, light green and
stunted. The plant foliage becomes sparse or thin and
eventually dies. Some plants die one branch at a time
until the entire plant dies. The centers of the roots
change from white to a reddish-brown color, and the
outer layer of the roots will separate easily from the
core.
Phytophthora
root rot is favored by high soil moisture and warm soil
temperatures. The disease does not occur as frequently
and may not be as severe on well-drained sandy soils as
on clay or poorly drained soils. The disease is common
and severe in areas where run-off water, e.g., rainwater
from roofs, collects around plant roots. Shallow soils
with underlying rock or hard pans, setting woody plants
deeper than the soil level in the nursery or container,
over-watering plants, flooding, or long periods of heavy
rain also favor disease development.
The best form of treatment is preventative and cultural
practices.
Below are some tips and control measures. You'll see
cultural procedures listed first with the last being a
fungicide treatment option for control of phytophthora
root rot.
-
Plant susceptible plant varieties in very well
drained soils only.
-
Never position root balls lower than their normal
planting height
-
Never place soil on the surface of root balls when
planting
-
Utilize raised plantings as often as possible
-
Amend soil with soil amendments that promote good
drainage
-
Raise soil areas that are low and tend to hold water
draining poorly
-
Avoid excessive watering, especially during hot and
rainy periods.
-
Where attempted plantings have failed and
phytophthora root rot has been experienced, replaced
with alternate less susceptible shrub varieties.
-
A soil drench and foliage spray utilizing
Agrifos Systemic Fungicide
can be used to treat problem situations where
curative treatment is being attempted.
Here are some website links that will enable you to
learn more about this this disease, it's symptoms, and
control methods.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/od15.htm
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/oldnotes/odin13/od13.htm
Azalea Lace Bug

Two-Lined Spittlebug
The spittlebug derives its name from the white, frothy"
spittle" the nymphs produce. Adults are large, black
leafhoppers
about 1/3-inch long with two red stripes that go
crosswise across the back. The eyes and abdomen are
bright red. Though the nymphs resemble the adults, they
are smaller and wingless. Color varies from yellow to
white to orange but the eyes are always red.
Spittlebug nymphs suck plant juices like aphids, but
they remove so much water and carbohydrates that excess
fluid is produced. They cover themselves with this fluid
and then produce the spittle by bubbling air from the
tip of the abdomen into the liquid. The spittle mass
helps protect the nymphs from drying and predators.
Spittlebugs
normally do not achieve high enough populations to cause
damage. If they do, forcefully hosing the plants several
times may achieve the level of control needed. If not, a
variety of common ornamental insecticides can be used
such as Bonide Systemic Insect
Control,
Hi-Yield Kill-A-Bug, or
Fertilome Carbaryl.
Below are a few links that you can use to understand
more about the two lined Spittlebug.
http://insects.tamu.edu/fieldguide/aimg86.html
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/dp_hfrr/extensn/problems/SpittleBug.htm
http://entweb.clemson.edu/cuentres/cesheets/forage/ce159.htm
Hemlock Wooly Adelgids
This serious pest is not only going to have a devastating
effect on our native hemlocks residing in our forest,
but will also be affecting the many Canadian hemlocks within
our landscapes which have always been a frequently used
evergreen, especially during the 70,s, 80,s, and 90's.
Many Canadian hemlocks exists within our landscapes
today.
If not treated, Hemlocks within our region will almost
certainly obtain
an infestation of the Hemlock Wooly Adelgid. An
infestation allowed to remain will kill an Hemlock
within 3-6 years or sooner.
Most professionals and arborists are highly recommending
a basal trunk injection or soil drench application.
Foliar insecticide applications will require very
regular applications and some feel that this type of
application will simply not be adequate to control
this serious pest. Due to hemlock wooly adelgid's heavy infestation on large
sized hemlocks, heavy reproduction rate, and nature
abiltiy to
repel topically applied insecticides, basal trunk injection or
soil drench applications are likely to be the only
effective treatment to combat this problem.
Below is more information that we have provided to help
you know more about this landscape pest.
General Information
The hemlock woolly adelgid is a small (1/32 inch),
reddish-purple, aphid-like insect that covers itself
with a white, fluffy secretion.
Some adults have two pairs of wings. Their mouthparts
are thread-like and about 1/16 inch long and used to
suck sap. Sucking sap from young twigs retards or
prevents tree growth and causes needles to turn
grayish-green, and drop prematurely. The loss of new
shoots and needles is highly detrimental to a tree's
health. A tree may defoliate and die within several
years.
Eggs are brownish-orange, but darken as the embryo
matures. The eggs are also hidden within the white,
fluffy secretion. When the eggs hatch, flat, naked,
reddish-brown adelgid crawlers move about actively. Once
the crawlers settle, they become black with a white
fringe around the edge and down the center of the back.
Young adelgids live on twigs or at the bases of old
needles. They soon secrete a white, fluffy "wool" that
completely covers their body. The wingless nymphs
resemble adults but are smaller. Infested branches
become covered with circular, fluffy, white blobs.
BiologyThe hemlock woolly adelgid only survives on hemlock (Tsuga
sp.). This is an extremely damaging pest of hemlock.
This insect is thought to have been transported to North
America from the Orient. It has been known in the
Pacific Northwest since 1927. In recent years, hemlock
woolly adelgid was found in the Northeastern US where it
has become a severe pest. It was first reported in North
Carolina in 1995. In 2005, surveys
show that hemlock woolly adelgid is known to be in most
of the counties where Tsuga sp. is endemic.
Infested hemlocks become covered with dirty white globs
of cottony puffs. Infested trees defoliate prematurely
and may die eventually. Natural stands of hemlock are at
greatest risk for death. Landscape plantings may need
treatment if infested.

The hemlock woolly adelgid overwinters as a female
within the fluffy mass. Egg laying begins in February.
Tiny crawlers hatch from the eggs and settle down to
feed. Older nymphs secrete the fluffy, white "wool".
Some nymphs develop into a winged form that leaves
hemlock to lay eggs on an alternate host such as spruce.
The remaining nymphs develop into wingless females that
lay eggs in a fluffy mass on hemlock. Wind and animals
disperse this insect. The second generation of adelgids
on hemlock settle down as young nymphs in July to spend
most of the summer as tiny black insects with a white
fringe. In October or November, they molt, grow, and
produce the fluffy white mass.
Control
The hemlock woolly adelgid is a difficult insect to
control because the fluffy white secretion protects its
eggs from pesticides. A good time to attempt control it
is in October when the second generation begins to
develop. The insecticidal soaps and the horticultural
oils seem to be very effective for adelgid control if
caught within the early stages. Most professionals are
recommending soil drench or basal trunk injection for a
more effective control lasting 1 year or longer with a
single treatment. Trees that are heavily infested
and are showing symptoms of decline should be treated
immediately with a foliar systemic insect control, soil
drench, or basal trunk injection. Horticultural spray
oil can be applied during the winter and before new
growth emerges in spring. Oil sprays may damage hemlock
during the growing season, especially in dry weather.
Registered pesticides containing imidacloprid may be
useful for specimen trees located away from water
sources.
Evergreen provides a soil drench insecticide
with imidacloprid called
Fertilome Tree & Shrub Insect Drench that
can be used to apply a single soil drench application
that provides one year of treatment against the Hemlock
Wooly Adelgid.
Below are links to other referenes on Hemlock Wooly
Adelgids
http://www.saveourhemlocks.org/
http://www.nps.gov/grsm/naturescience/hemlock-woolly-adelgid.htm
http://na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/pest_al/hemlock/hwa05.htm
http://www.ento.vt.edu/~sharov/hwa/ |